After a long day, I love whipping up a new pattern don’t you? Lately, it feels like we’ve been creating lots of new designs from scratch and I love it! This silk DIY asymmetrical top is also simple to make, drapes beautifully, and is crazy comfortable. This project really is a win win!
In this tutorial we’ll also be learning some tips and tricks in working with silk fabrics, how to hem your shirt, and how to care for it when it’s completed.
I used two methods to hem the neckline and armholes for this top and the asymmetrical bottom. Today, I’ll show you how to do both!
Caring For Silk Fabric
I love having high-quality clothes in fine fabrics, but personally don’t love the excessive expense in caring for them. If you don’t want the hassle and expense of dry cleaning either, you can wash 100% silk by hand. It takes less than ten minutes and will save you a ton of money over time.
Start out by filling your sink with cold water and a gentle detergent. Lightly agitate for 3-5 minutes, remove from the water and rinse until the silk feels clean and residue-free. Lay it flat to dry.
Hanging 100% silk can damage the natural fibers in the fabric and warp the shape of your clothes. Avoid damaging your clothes by laying the item flat and the fabric should dry within a few hours. Then hang it, wear it, love it, and repeat. Easy enough right?
DIY Asymmetrical Top Supplies
- 1 Yard Silk fabric (I got mine from Mood in New York City you can find similar HERE)
- Dressmaker Shears
- Sewing Machine
- Dressmaker Pins
- Tape Measure
How To Make Your DIY Asymmetrical Top Pattern
To make this basic pattern-making process as easy as possible, I laid out all the measurements below with a cute little infographic.
- Fold your fabric in half w/ “right sides” together
- Measure the short edge of your asymmetrical top. Pin into place, leaving an open space for your armhole about 8″ wide.
- Measure the long edge of your asymmetrical top. Cut an 8″ hole from the top corner of your foldline down to create an armhole.
- Cut your diagonal line across the hemline.
- Cut a curve from the center-front to create a wide neckline. Since this fabric does not stretch, be sure the hole is at least as wide as the circumference of your head. The oversize, draped design of this top allows us to avoid including zippers or closures in this project.
Important Tips On Sewing Silk Fabrics
Since you only need to sew this shirt together from the shoulder seams and one side seam, the process will go together pretty quickly, especially if you follow the tips on sewing silk fabrics I’ve mapped out below:
- Use an extra fine or ultra-fine glass head pins or silk pins when sewing silk. They will glide through your fabric easily and will not leave snags or permanent pin-holes that could damage the finished piece.
- Test your machine with a piece of scrap silk fabric before you begin. Adjust the tension, needle quality, and stitch length before you ever begin sewing your project.
- When pressing, be sure to use a pressing cloth to protect the silk from direct contact with your iron. I like to use a piece of silk organza or scrap piece of muslin for this. Some silks can handle steam, while others cannot and will be permanently damaged. Be sure to test first on a scrap piece of silk before you begin sewing and avoid the headache later.
- Use pattern weights rather than sewing pins when cutting out future patterns. Sewing pins can leave permanent holes in your fabric so avoid using them when possible and do your best to keep puncture marks within your seam allowance.
How To Sew Your DIY Asymmetrical Top Together
Carefully pin the shoulder seams and side seam of your silk asymmetrical top together. Sew together with a 1/2 inch seam allowance.
Fold the hemline of your fabric under 1/2″. Use a seam gauge and iron to press. Sew along this edge and trim any excess raw fabric.
Next, fold your seam over again, hiding any raw edge from view on both the outside and inside of your hemline. Pin into place and sew. I like to make this stitch as narrow as possible to keep the hemline nice and tight.
Around the neckline and armholes, I ran the rough edges through a serger. Then, I ironed the serged seam under, pinned into place and sewed down. It created a finished look without the tedious process.
Overall, I love the fit and drape of this shirt. I hope you like it too! If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask in the comments below!
Loved The Tutorial? Please Share It!
Other Tutorials You May Like